When people see tiny iguana hatchlings in pet stores they have no idea how big they can get. Full grown male iguanas can weigh 20 lbs and reach lengths of 5 ft +. Contrary to the common misconception, they are not limited in size by the size of their enclosure. They will continue to grow throughout their lifetimes – quickly at first and then slowly as they age. A young iguana will outgrow a 55 gallon aquarium in its first year.
Iguanas have sharp claws, sharper teeth, and whip-like tails that can inflict serious damage. A bite from an adult iguana can mean a trip to a hospital for stitches.
They are not always easily tamed. Iguanas need consistent guidance and interaction to become tame – this can take a long time.
During mating season, males can become very aggressive to humans. Even normally tame and timid iguanas have been known to attack their female owners.
Iguanas have very specific dietary needs and can develop serious health problems if not fed accordingly. Their diet should consist of a staple of greens (collards, turnips, mustards, and dandelion greens – NOT lettuce) with vegetables (green beans, parsnips, squash, carrots) and occasional fruits (strawberries, bananas, apples). They also require a precise ratio of vitamins and minerals in their diet.
Iguanas should NEVER be fed animal protein (mice, crickets, dog food, etc.). Their kidneys have to work harder to remove the waste products of protein breakdown, which leads to kidney damage and eventual kidney failure. High plant protein sources such as soybean or tofu can also cause damage.
Iguanas are a huge investment in time and money. They require special UVB lighting and heating, humidifiers, and huge housing (the minimum space for an adult is 6 ft x 4 ft x 6 ft). Regular veterinarian visits are also costly.
Iguanas can, and do, get sick. They require regular visits with a veterinarian that specializes in reptiles (they can be hard to find).
After the first year, iguanas require a custom built cage. There are no ready-made cages or enclosures that are large enough to meet the requirements of a fullgrown iguana. You will either have to buy a custom built cage or build one.
Iguanas, being tropical animals, have to be kept very warm – at the expense of your heating bill. They require a basking spot that is 90-95ºF and the ambient air temperature should be no lower than 80ºF during the day.
Hot rocks are a no no! Hot rocks are infamous for causing severe thermal burns on all species of reptiles. Arboreal species, such as iguanas, are the most delicate and commonly burned - due in large part to the fact that, in nature, they use their backs to absorb heat from the sun, not their bellies.
Iguanas must have a source of UVA and UVB light. Iguanas that are deprived of proper UV lighting suffer from a disease called Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which causes weak bones, jaw and bone deformities and early death. UV bulbs must be changed every 6 to 9 months - regardless if they are burned out or not.
Like most reptiles, iguanas can carry and spread salmonella. Salmonella is an intestinal disease that can be especially dangerous in children, the elderly, and people with damaged immune systems.
Iguanas need lots of attention. They need contact and interaction - they cannot be stuck in a cage and ignored.
If properly cared for, a captive green iguana can live 20 years plus. There are reports of iguanas living for thirty years.
Some states, counties and cities have laws against keeping iguanas as pets. Hawaii and New York City are just two of the many places where pet iguanas are illegal. Also, many apartments and townhomes do not allow reptiles.
Iguanas are a threatened species. Because of their popularity in the pet trade and as food in Latin American countries, green iguanas are listed on the CITES Appendix II, which means they are considered a threatened species.
Iguanas are sometimes given away as prizes - like goldfish – at some state fairs and carnivals. Fortunately, many states and cities have laws against this unscrupulous practice.
Most Iguana books, even ones printed in the last 10 years, typically are 20-30 years out of date in terms of the latest developments in animal care ("Iguanas for Dummies" by Melissa Kaplan and "The Ultimate Green Iguana Manual" by James Hatfield are exceptions). For more up to date information on iguanas, visit these highly recommended websites:
Melissa Kaplan’s Green Iguana Care Collection
http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/
Before You Get an Iguana...
http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/
The Green Iguana Society
http://www.greenigsociety.org/
Are You Prepared To Own An Iguana?
http://www.greenigsociety.org/credentials.htm
The Ultimate Green Iguana Manual
http://www.iguana.com/
Jennifer Swofford's Iguana Pages
http://www.baskingspot.com/iguanas/index.html
The Fright of the Iguana - Pet Reptiles Pose Risk of Salmonella Infection for Their Owners
http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/1997/797_rept.html
Clyde was rescued from a pet store in Denver, CO, and brought to Colorado Reptile Rescue in July of 2000. He was very thin and had severe burns covering his body. His tail was broken and he was also blind. The next month was touch and go for Clyde. Clyde's skin was a constant worry - infected skin can lead to debilitating systematic infections - and had to be debrided on a regular basis (a painful, but necessary, process). Clyde's right eye, already unseeing, developed a severe infection and had to be removed. Clyde's tail also developed an infection and was amputated. Luckily, he is now on the mend.
Some pet stores sell iguanas with special ‘starter kits’. These kits usually include a 30 gallon aquarium, reptile bark bedding, a container of pellet iguana food, and a hot rock – all of which are either useless or dangerous. The 30 gallon tank will house a hatchling for only a few months before they outgrow it. Reptile bark can be accidentally ingested, causing an impaction. Commercial iguana diets often contain animal protein and/or other harmful ingredients. Hot rocks can cause serious burns and are NOT a suitable form of heat.