Red Eyed Tree Frogs

A 29 gallon tank will do for a pair of frogs. Put a piece of glass over most of the top to keep the humidity up and a newspaper substrate, which you soak with distilled water. Run an airline in so they receive good air circulation. Or for a more attractive setup, you can add an inch of pea sized gravel to the bottom of the tank, then take a piece of air conditioner filter and place that over the rocks. After that is securely put into place, put about 4 inches of topsoil over that and then mold it into an interesting terrain. Find a small water dish such as a lab dish or a lid to a container that's about an inch deep. Stick the water dish in the soil till the soil is just before the rim of the dish. You can place a large leafed plant over the water dish about 6 inches above it. Cover the remaining soil with moss; be careful not to let any of the moss over hang into the water dish because it will drain the water real quickly. You can go with a regular all glass aquarium lid. Some plants that work well that you can plant right in to the soil are Japanese evergreen, devils ivy (pothos) and various philodendron. They (the plants AND the frogs) need to be misted frequently (every few hours). Anything you collect from the outside must first be soaked in a mild bleach and water solution overnight, then soaked in water for another night and allowed to thoroughly air dry to kill any bacteria or bugs that may harm your frogs. Be sure the items are not releasing any fumes when they are placed into the enclosure. Always use dechlorinated or staled water for misting and water dishes (add dechlorinating drops or let the water sit out for at least 24 hours before using). Distilled water should never be used in a frog's tank! You should thoroughly clean the enclosure once a week. Take everything out and rinse it and the aquarium under hot water (no soap).

The day temperature should be about 78-85° and about anywhere from 66 to 77° at night. This can be accomplished by using under tank heaters or a ceramic heat emitter (be sure the frog can’t come into contact with either source). The humidity should be kept around 80%. Always mist with dechlorinated or staled water (let it sit out for at least 24 hours before misting the frog with it OR add dechlorinating drops)! A full spectrum light (vita-lite) should be left on for a couple of hours a day. Hot rocks/sticks/caves should not be used due to the fact that they can cause thermal burns.

As babies, they feed well on pinhead crickets, fruit flies, and aphids. Adult frogs feed well on medium crickets, flies, and moths. Dust the insects with a half-and-half ratio of osteo-form and rep-cal phosphorous free with calcium and vitamin D. Put the powder in a plastic bag along with the insects and shake to coat them. Then put the insects in with the frog. Instead of catching wild insects to feed to your frog, buy them from a pet store or mail order company due to the fact that wild-caught insects can carry diseases and pesticides! Remember to remove all dead or uneaten insects/food items everyday. Fireflies, ladybugs, and lubber grasshoppers are toxic to frogs and therefore should be avoided at all costs when feeding your frog insects.

If your frog is cut or burned by something in its cage, remove the object and call a vet before applying any kind of medication due to the fact that some can be lethal to your frog.
Fungal infections are very common in tadpoles and younger frogs. They look like inflamed areas of the skin surrounded by whitish threads. In its early stages, it can be treated by immersing the frog/tadpole in a 2% solution of malachite green or Mercurochrome for five minutes, repeated again after 24 hours. A veterinarian should be called if the infection does not clear up.
Red leg is a common disease in frogs caused by bad husbandry. It causes small ulcers, hemorrhages, and reddening of the skin around the belly and underside of the thighs. The infected frog should be kept warm (85 F) and immersed in a 2% solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.
You should always at least consult a veterinarian if you think there is something wrong with your frog!