Green Tree Frogs

Green Tree Frogs should only be housed with other Green Tree Frogs, no other species! You will want to use nothing less than a 10 gallon terrarium. A screen top is also required for security reasons and good ventilation. Use non-chemical potting soil covered with moss as a substrate. Never use cedar or pine shavings (toxic), gravel or astro-turf(abrasive), bark or sand (abrasive and ingestible) as a substrate! Add some plastic/real plants (a spider plant is the best choice for live plants), branches, and hiding places. Never use gravel or anything small enough to fit in the frog’s mouth in your frog's enclosure. Anything you collect from the outside must first be soaked in a mild bleach and water solution overnight, then soaked in water for another night and allowed to thoroughly air dry to kill any bacteria or bugs that may harm your frogs. Be sure the items are not releasing any fumes when they are placed into the enclosure. Your frogs should also be provided with a shallow bowl of 1 to 2 inches of dechlorinated water for soaking and defecation (this water must be changed every day or when dirtied to prevent bacterial infections). Just add dechlorinating drops, which can be found at your local pet store, as directed. You can find water bowls at your local pet store that are quite attractive and easy to clean. Distilled water should never be used in a frog's tank! You should thoroughly clean the enclosure once a week. Take everything out and rinse it and the aquarium under hot water (no soap).

Average temps should be between 68-77 F and a little cooler in winter. You can use an under-tank heater situated under one end of the enclosure (not in the middle) to provide the right amount of heat. These frogs also need to be misted once a day with dechlorinated water. Just add dechlorinating drops, which can be found at your local pet store, as directed. You should spray in the morning to prevent any bacterial buildup. Hot rocks/sticks/caves should not be used due to the fact that they can cause thermal burns.

Their diet should consist of crickets, moths, flies, cockroaches, locusts, and beetles every other day dusted with a vitamin supplement, which can be found in your local pet store, once a week. Use extreme caution when feeding live foods. They can make your frog ill or cause injury. Instead of catching wild insects to feed to your frog, buy them from a pet store or mail order company due to the fact that wild-caught insects can carry diseases and pesticides! Remember to remove all dead or uneaten insects/food items everyday. Fireflies, ladybugs, and lubber grasshoppers are toxic to frogs and therefore should be avoided at all costs when feeding your frog insects.

If your frog is cut or burned by something in its cage, remove the object and call a vet before applying any kind of medication due to the fact that some can be lethal to your frog.
Fungal infections are very common in tadpoles and younger frogs. They look like inflamed areas of the skin surrounded by whitish threads. In its early stages, it can be treated by immersing the frog/tadpole in a 2% solution of malachite green or Mercurochrome for five minutes, repeated again after 24 hours. A veterinarian should be called if the infection does not clear up.
Red leg is a common disease in frogs caused by bad husbandry. It causes small ulcers, hemorrhages, and reddening of the skin around the belly and underside of the thighs. The infected frog should be kept warm (85 F) and immersed in a 2% solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.
You should always at least consult a veterinarian if you think there is something wrong with your frog!