Firebellied Toads


Firebellies are slightly toxic (sometimes even to humans) frogs. Always wash your hands after handling and, of course, don't lick your fingers after touching them. They aren’t deadly but some people do get nasty reactions, especially when they accidentally rub their face or eyes after handling the toads. They can however potentially damage other species that they are housed with. For that reason, they should be only be housed with other Firebellies (no newts or other frogs!).

Housing

The minimum size of a tank is 10 gallons for one frog; a twenty (or twenty-nine) gallon is recommended. A half and half tank is the most appropriate set up for Firebellies if you plan to breed. Just add a sloping layer of gravel (with pieces large enough that your frogs can't swallow them) that rises just above the water level on one side of the tank and add moss, real or fake NON-FERTILIZED plants (pothos), and hiding spots to that side. If you do use plants in any set up make sure you remove the little white balls! The tank should have a small filter. Keep the water clean and always use dechlorinated water (add dechlorinating drops or let the water sit out for at least 24 hours). NEVER use distilled water! Just a reminder: Firebellies lay 40 - 50 eggs in one laying, so you will have that many frogs to care for if you encourage breeding! You can set up a terrestrial tank to prevent breeding. This set up is all land and has a shallow bowl of water. Keep the water clean and dechlorinated! Never use distilled water! A 1 inch layer of gravel (1/2 to 1 inch diameter) should cover the very bottom of the tank for drainage. Use a non-chemical potting soil, Repti-bark mixture with moss covering it as a substrate which covers the gravel. Add hiding places and plants (pothos, aralia). Every three months, you must remove the layer of moss and the uppermost layer of dirt. Add a little dirt back and new moss. This will keep bacteria at lower levels. Use hot water when cleaning your frog's enclosure... No chemicals! A secure screen cage lid is very necessary.

Temperatures

The temperatures in the daytime should be between 68-77 F, at night they should be between 65-68 F. In winter you need to drop the temperatures to 9 degrees F less than normal temps. A humidity of 70 to 90% is needed. This can be accomplished by misting the cage twice daily with dechlorinated water (just add dechlorinating drops, which can be found in your local pet store).

Diet

Feed your frogs twice a week (daily for tadpoles) gutloaded crickets, meadow plankton, and small earthworms. To gutload, feed the insects fruits, vegetables, and exotic fish food at least one day before feeding them to your frog. Or you can buy vitamin dust from your local pet store and dust your insects as directed instead of gutloading them. Use extreme caution when feeding live foods. They can make your frog ill or cause injury. Instead of catching wild insects to feed to your pet you should buy them from a pet store or mail order company due to the fact that wild-caught insects can carry diseases and pesticides! If, however, you do decide to collect insects from the wild, make sure you get them from an area that has not been treated with pesticides or is near an area contaminated with pesticides. Remember to remove all dead or uneaten insects/food items daily. Fireflies, ladybugs, and lubber grasshoppers are toxic to frogs and therefore should be avoided at all costs when feeding your frog insects.

Suggested Reading

Amphibians in Captivity (TFH) - Marc Staniszewski (1995)
A Field Guide to the Reptiles and Amphibians of Britain and Europe (Collins) - Arnold/Burton 1980
Frogs & Toads of the World (Cassell) - Chris Mattison 1987