CALIFORNIA KINGSNAKE

A baby California kingsnake can be kept in a 10-gallon aquarium; adults require the space of a long 20-gallon aquarium. Newspaper, paper towels, and Astro-turf are all suitable materials to use on the bottom of the enclosure. Hiding spots should be placed in both the warm and cool end of the enclosure (see the Temperatures section for more info.). Branches for climbing can also be added to the cage. A sturdy bowl of fresh water, large enough for the snake for the snake to soak in, should be available at all times. A secure screen lid is a must.

The enclosure needs a warm end and a cool end so that the snake can regulate its body temperature. Temperatures should range from 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool end of the enclosure to 82-86 degrees Fahrenheit on the warm end. You can accomplish this by placing a reptile heat lamp on top of the screen cage-top and using an undertank heating pad (both are available at your local pet store). When placing the heat lamp, make sure it is not close enough to burn your snake. Never use heat rocks, they can cause devastating thermal burns.

California kingsnakes should be fed an appropriately sized mouse once a week. A good rule of thumb is to feed the snake a food item that is the same, or close to, the snake's diameter. Pre-killed or stunned mice are best because live mice can fatally injure a snake. Frozen mice can be thawed by placing them in a plastic bag floating in warm water. They should be fed to the snake using long tongs.

It is important to keep the enclosure temperature steady before and after feeding your snake: if a snake is cooled and kept cool after it has fed, putrefaction in the gut of the snake can occur. This can result in regurgitation of the prey, or in extreme cases, in the death of the snake. The snake shouldn't be handled for at least 2 days after it has fed.

Any newly acquired specimens should be checked for parasites, strength, alertness, and symptoms of respiratory distress. All specimens should have a routine fecal exam done by a qualified reptile veterinarian. When your snake first defecates, collect the feces in a clean plastic bag, seal it, label it with the date, and take it and your snake to a vet who is experienced with reptiles and have the sample tested for worms.

Simple routine cage cleanings with mild soap and water should be done at least weekly. Both cage and substrate should be dry after cleanings. Between complete cage cleanings, all fecal material and areas of wet substrate should be removed as quickly as possible. The cage should be disinfected once or twice a month. Commercially available disinfectants, such as Rocal and Nolvasan, are excellent. After sterilizing, be sure to rise well and let dry. Water bowls should be changed on a regular basis to prevent the growth of parasites or bacteria. Chaing the water twice weekly should be sufficient and disinfecting the water bowls twice monthly will eliminate the potential for problems. Of course, if your snake defecates in its water, the bowl should be removed, cleaned, and refilled right away.

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