Housing
Bull Frogs should be housed alone to prevent cannibalism! They require a very simple aquarium with some dechlorinated water (never distilled!) deep enough for the frog to fully emerge itself in and a few sterilized, large, smooth rocks for the frog to climb out of the water on. Smaller, smooth, river rocks can be added across the bottom of the tank as a substrate. The rocks should be placed in boiling water for a minute or two to make sure they are sterilized before they are placed in the frog's tank. Lily pads and other non-toxic aquatic plants can also be added to the aquarium. To dechlorinate water, let it sit out for at least a day before using it in the frog’s tank. A secure lid is necessary to prevent escapes.
Temperatures
Bull Frogs are most comfortable in temperatures between 77 to 83 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and between 70-75 degrees F at night. Never put their tank in direct sunlight or temperatures above 85 degrees or below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not use a heat light! For heating and UVB purposes, a full spectrum bulb can be used.
Diet
Their diet should consist of gutloaded insects such as crickets, head-less mealworms (pinch off their heads before feeding them to your frog), grasshoppers, etc. with occasional guppies, and prekilled pinky mice. To gutload, feed the insects fruits, vegetables, and exotic fish food at least one day before feeding them to your frog. Insects and worms can be left on the rocks in the cage, and the pre-killed mice can be fed with ball-tipped forceps. Instead of catching wild insects to feed to your frog, you should buy all your prey items from reputable pet stores or mail order companies due to the fact that wild-caught insects can carry diseases and pesticides. Remember to remove all dead or uneaten insects/food items everyday. Fireflies, ladybugs, and lubber grasshoppers are toxic to frogs and therefore should be avoided at all costs when feeding your frog insects.
Health
If your frog is cut or burned by something in its cage, remove the object and call a vet before applying any kind of medication due to the fact that some can be lethal to your frog.
Fungal infections are very common in tadpoles and younger frogs. They look like inflamed areas of the skin surrounded by whitish threads. In its early stages, it can be treated by immersing the frog/tadpole in a 2% solution of malachite green or Mercurochrome for five minutes, repeated again after 24 hours. A veterinarian should be called if the infection does not clear up.
Red leg is a common disease in frogs caused by bad husbandry. It causes small ulcers, hemorrhages, and reddening of the skin around the belly and underside of the thighs. The infected frog should be kept warm (85 F) and immersed in a 2% solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.
You should always at least consult a veterinarian if you think there is something wrong with your frog!
Bull Frogs are poisonous to other animals if eaten or attacked.