Housing
A ten gallon half water-half land aquarium will do. Seal a piece of acrylic across the aquarium so that there is a gentle slope from the water area to the land area. Make the dechlorinated (add dechlorinating drops or allow the water to sit out a day or so before using) water area around two-four inches deep. Never use distilled water in a frog's enclosure! You may need to add some gravel to lessen the height of the water. In the water part of the tank place a 50-watt heater (set to 86 F), and a small internal filter. Even when you use a filter you will still need to clean the water once a week. Loosely wrap an old piece of airline tubing around the heater to prevent burns. On the land area use a substrate of bark mulch mixed with soil with a layer of damp moss on top and a plant for some shelter. Clean the entire enclosure once every month or so with hot water and no chemicals.
Temperatures
Temperatures should be kept in the 80s F during the day and lowered to 75 degrees F at night. Use a water heater and maybe an undertank heating pad to maintain tropical conditions. Hot rocks/sticks/caves should not be used due to the fact that they can cause thermal burns.
Diet
When it is young, feed your frog small guppies, crickets and the occasional waxworm to add fat. As the frog grows larger, larger food items can be offered, such as jumbo crickets, large guppies, and pinky mice. Feed the insects exotic fish food or cricket feed for at least 24 hours before they are fed to your frog. By the time your frog is full size (5.5 inches in about 1 year) it can be fed almost solely pinky mice and large feeder guppy fish. Instead of catching wild insects for your frog, buy from pet stores to reduce the risk of feeding your frog disease/pesticide-ridden insects. Remove all uneaten insects daily.
Health
If your frog is cut or burned by something in its cage, remove the object and call a vet before applying any kind of medication due to the fact that some can be lethal to your frog.
Fungal infections are very common in tadpoles and younger frogs. They look like inflamed areas of the skin surrounded by whitish threads. In its early stages, it can be treated by immersing the frog/tadpole in a 2% solution of malachite green or Mercurochrome for five minutes, repeated again after 24 hours. A veterinarian should be called if the infection does not clear up.
Red leg is a common disease in frogs caused by bad husbandry. It causes small ulcers, hemorrhages, and reddening of the skin around the belly and underside of the thighs. The infected frog should be kept warm (85 F) and immersed in a 2% solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.
You should always at least consult a veterinarian if you think there is something wrong with your frog!