Axolotls

Axolotls can live their whole life in what is basically an undeveloped state, however, some axolotls do actually lose their gills and leave the water. This tendency, or rather ability, to develop further seems to be passed on genetically. Not all axolotls can do it, and of those who can, some do it more easily than others. While it seems to be pretty rare in the wild, scientists can elicit metamorphosis successfully through a number of methods, like gradually reducing the amount of water in the tank and changing the chemistry of the water. This, however, is not recommended because it is very stressful, and sometimes fatal, for the axolotl. As long as an axolotl is in its neotenous form, it can easily heal wounds, regrow limbs and even eyes! It's one of the most highly developed regenerative animals in Nature. If you suddenly find your finger inside an axolotl's mouth, wait patiently for it to let go. Do not fight the axolotl, or you may cause it harm. Their teeth are harmless and it's quite amusing to watch the axolotl spit your finger out. Housing

Make sure you introduce your axolotls into an established tank (all the cycles are working and have been for a while). A ten gallon tank is suitable for one or two adult axolotls. You can keep the water level at 60-70% of the volume of the tank. A wet-dry filter does the best. It uses a cartridge that contains activated charcoal for controlling ammonia and collecting large bits of waste, plus a water wheel that increases aeration and maintains a healthy colony of good bacteria year-round. Every time you change your filter cartridge, you're getting rid of a bunch of those helpful bacteria... the dual-barreled approach of the wet-dry filter ensures that some of the little guys are always there while the new cartridge builds up a colony of its own. If you use a filter with an intake tube, make sure that it is hidden behind rocks or somewhere their gills will not get sucked into. You can use Mexican river rocks (1"-1½" in diameter) as a substrate. They are very smooth, and the axolotls use them to rest or stand up upon. Gravel has been known to cause impaction problems and should not be used. A secure lid is a must.

Temperatures

Heaters are not necessary in an axolotl tank, due to the fact that keeping the water cool is a main priority. Axolotls in their native habitat live in temperatures of 60-68ºF.

Diet

Juveniles should be fed every day with Artemia and adults every other day with fish pellets, and tubiflex worms. For a special treat you can occasionally offer your axolotl a few guppies, and/or worms. Before you feed your axolotl, make sure it's awake by lightly tapping its container or turning on the lights or something that will solicit a reaction. To not do so would be wasting food because most food will go foul after being left in water for any amount of time over a few minutes. Make sure you clean up any uneaten food immediately. You can also transfer your axolotl to a clean container for feeding to make cage cleaning easier (never use any chemicals in or near your axolotls enclosure).

Water Quality

Axolotls are used to a pH between 7.4-8.2. Water test kits are essential to the proper care of your pet. As long as you make a habit of removing all chlorine from your water before putting it in your tank, you don't have to test for that. To remove chlorine, add dechlorinating drops according to the bottle's instructions. You can buy these drops and the special test kits at your local pet or aquarium store. You should always check the water's pH and test for ammonia. Regular nitrite tests are recommended.

Handling

Do not handle your axolotl unless you have to. Their skin is very sensitive and soft and can be damaged very easily. If, however, you need to move your axolotl to another aquarium, etc., use both hands, with one behind the head and another holding both legs and the tail. Axolotls are very wiggly, slimy, and strong. You will be surprised how firm (but gentle!) you have to be when transporting them.