Leopard Frogs

Leopard Frogs should only be housed with other Leopard Frogs, not with other species. A large tank with half land and half water (add a piece of plexi-glass to the middle), which needs to be six inches deep, should be used. You might want to invest in a filter but you will still need to change the water frequently to prevent bacteria build up. Distilled water should never be used in a frog's tank! Always use dechlorinated water. Just add dechlorinating drops, which can be found at your local pet store, as directed. Fake or real plants and other forms of hiding places need to be provided on the land section of the enclosure. A potting soil (bed-a-beast)/moss mixture can be used as a substrate. Never use cedar or pine shavings (toxic), gravel or astro-turf(abrasive), bark or sand (abrasive and ingestible) as a substrate! You should thoroughly clean the enclosure once a week. Take everything out and rinse it and the aquarium under hot water (no soap). They need to be housed alone or only with other Leopard Frogs because they can be poisonous to other frogs.

The maximum temp, 77 F, needs to be reduced to 59 F at night. An incandescent heat light or undertank heater can be used. These frogs need to hibernate for about 3 months every winter at temperatures between 37-39*F. Hot rocks/sticks/caves should not be used due to the fact that they can cause thermal burns.

Their diet should consist of gutloaded crickets, moths, cockroaches, and occasional mealworms. To gutload, feed the insects fruits, vegetables, and exotic fish food at least one day before feeding them to your frog. Or you can buy vitamin dust from your local pet store and dust your insects as directed instead of gutloading them. Use extreme caution when feeding live foods. They can make your frog ill or cause injury. Instead of catching wild insects to feed to your frog you should buy them from a pet store or mail order company due to the fact that wild-caught insects carry diseases and pesticides! Fireflies, ladybugs, and lubber grasshoppers are toxic to frogs and therefore should be avoided at all costs when feeding your frog insects.

If your frog is cut or burned by something in its cage, remove the object and call a vet before applying any kind of medication due to the fact that some can be lethal to your frog.
Fungal infections are very common in tadpoles and younger frogs. They look like inflamed areas of the skin surrounded by whitish threads. In its early stages, it can be treated by immersing the frog/tadpole in a 2% solution of malachite green or Mercurochrome for five minutes, repeated again after 24 hours. A veterinarian should be called if the infection does not clear up.
Red leg is a common disease in frogs caused by bad husbandry. It causes small ulcers, hemorrhages, and reddening of the skin around the belly and underside of the thighs. The infected frog should be kept warm (85 F) and immersed in a 2% solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.
You should always at least consult a veterinarian if you think there is something wrong with your frog!